The Indie Sleaze Revival: Why Gen Z Is Nostalgic for a Time They Never Lived In

The fashion trend that shaped the late 2000s and early 2010s dubbed “indie sleaze” is making a comeback. From its roots in smoky clubs, ripped tights, and suede wedge sneakers, the trend has become an unexpected obsession for Gen Z. At its core? An appreciation for an era that celebrated grit, individuality, and an effortlessly cool sense of style.

Back in 2011, French designer Isabel Marant captured the era’s essence when she introduced the iconic “Bekett” sneaker wedge. The suede, lace‑up high‑top quickly became a cult favorite after it was spotted on supermodel Kate Moss. It went on to dominate fashion moments for stars like Beyoncé and Eva Mendes. 

Today, 14 years later, Marant has reintroduced the silhouette in collaboration with Converse and she’s chosen a new face for the campaign: Lila Moss, Kate’s daughter. The younger Moss personifies the next wave of indie sleaze, capturing its mix of vintage charm and grungy rebellion.

“People kept asking for us to bring the shoes back,” Marant said from her Paris studio. “Why not? When something is well-achieved and good, it remains good forever. Kate is forever.”

But the phenomenon goes far beyond a single shoe. The term “indie sleaze” itself emerged in 2022 thanks to trend forecaster Mandy Lee’s popularization of the trend on TikTok. What began as a grainy digital snapshot of club-goers captured by party photographers like Mark Hunter, also known as The Cobrasnake evolved into a nostalgic rallying point for younger generations. 

Today, Gen Z embraces the torn tights, super-skinny jeans, messy hair, and smoky make‑up of an era long gone, finding beauty in its imperfections.

“On the one hand, you’re nostalgic for a time you lived in,” Isabel Marant said. 

“But really, the stronger form of that feeling is being nostalgic for a time you didn’t live in.”

Originally called “hipster style” or “Tumblr style” long before “indie sleaze” became its name, this fashion trend combined motorcycle boots, tight pants, and slouchy tops. It was an anti‑fashion statement inspired by music festivals, underground clubs, and a carefree approach to self‑expression.

Today, it’s a trend reshaping fashion. New York design student Chloe Plasse describes it as “such a cool time to be alive,” one that she embraces through Isabel Marant pieces that meld glamour and grit, making even a routine university lecture feel like a runway moment.

With its revival, indie sleaze is more than a trend it’s a statement. It captures the collective longing for authenticity, freedom, and that intoxicating sense of belonging found in a crowded room. The fashion and music scene of the late 2000s may be long gone, but its rebellious energy lives on, embraced by a generation making it their own.