Shein Lawyer Refuses to Confirm Chinese Cotton Usage: Sparks Criticism from UK MPs
A senior lawyer for the fast-fashion giant Shein, Yinan Zhu, recently faced a grilling from UK Members of Parliament (MPs) over whether the company uses cotton sourced from China, particularly from the Xinjiang region. Despite being questioned repeatedly, Ms. Zhu refused to confirm or deny the use of Chinese cotton, sparking outrage and accusations of "wilful ignorance."
Xinjiang has been at the center of global concerns due to allegations of forced labor and human rights violations involving the Uighur Muslim minority. The allegations have pressured major global brands to sever ties with suppliers in the region.
MPs Accuse Shein of Evasion
During the hearing, Ms. Zhu admitted that Shein’s suppliers manufacture products in China but declined to provide clarity on whether Xinjiang cotton was part of their supply chain. She told the Business and Trade Committee that the company’s suppliers sign up to rigorous ethical standards and undergo regular audits by third-party agencies. However, when asked if Shein explicitly prohibits the use of Xinjiang cotton, she requested permission to provide a written response later.
MPs, including Charlie Maynard, criticized her lack of transparency. “I am on your website and can see about 20 products made of cotton. Yet you cannot confirm whether any of it comes from Xinjiang. That is ridiculous,” Maynard said.
Liam Byrne, the committee chair, expressed exasperation, calling Ms. Zhu’s reluctance to answer “bordering on contempt.” He added, “For a company that sells £1bn worth of goods to consumers and is pursuing a UK listing, this lack of evidence is shocking.”
Global Backlash Over Xinjiang Cotton
The Xinjiang region has drawn intense international scrutiny, with reports suggesting that up to half a million Uighurs have been subjected to forced labor, including cotton harvesting. While China denies these allegations, many major fashion brands, such as H&M, Nike, Burberry, and Adidas, have stopped sourcing cotton from Xinjiang. These decisions led to boycotts and backlash in China.
In contrast, Shein has faced accusations of being opaque about its supply chain practices. The company, founded in China in 2008 and now headquartered in Singapore, has rapidly expanded to become one of the world’s leading fast-fashion retailers, shipping to over 150 countries.
Shein’s Sustainability and Ethical Commitments Questioned
Ms. Zhu emphasized that Shein does not own factories but instead relies on a vast network of suppliers, primarily in China, as well as in Turkey and Brazil. She stated that the company complies with “laws and regulations in the countries we operate in” and performs thousands of supplier audits annually.
However, critics argue that these measures lack transparency and do little to address allegations tied to forced labor in Xinjiang. MPs accused Shein of turning a blind eye to the issue, with some calling for stricter regulations on companies listing in the UK to ensure they uphold ethical standards.
Comparisons with Competitor Temu
In stark contrast, Temu, another fast-fashion competitor, assured the committee that it explicitly prohibits suppliers from Xinjiang from selling products on its platform. Stephen Heary, senior legal counsel at Temu, said, “Any issues of labor practices are something we take fundamentally very seriously.”
The committee acknowledged Temu’s approach, noting that it provided “some reassurance” about its supply chain ethics, while Shein failed to meet similar expectations.
Shein’s Potential London Stock Exchange Listing
Adding to the controversy, Shein recently filed initial paperwork to list shares on the London Stock Exchange, potentially valuing the company at £50bn. However, Ms. Zhu declined to comment on the details of the listing during the hearing, further frustrating MPs.
Fast Fashion Under Scrutiny
The hearing underscores the increasing scrutiny faced by fast-fashion giants like Shein. With growing concerns about forced labor, environmental impact, and ethical supply chains, lawmakers and consumers alike are demanding greater accountability from global brands.
As the debate over Xinjiang cotton intensifies, the spotlight remains firmly on Shein to provide transparent answers about its sourcing practices and ethical commitments.