Isfenğ: The Crispy Doughnut from al-Andalus That Lights Up Hanukkah
Hanukkah, the "Festival of Lights," is synonymous with fried foods, commemorating the miracle of oil lasting eight days. Beyond the familiar latkes and sufganiyot, the Sephardic isfenğ offers a unique and historical addition to Hanukkah tables. This crispy, airy doughnut has its origins in medieval al-Andalus (modern-day Spain) and continues to bridge Jewish and Muslim culinary traditions across centuries.
1. What Is Isfenğ?
Isfenğ, sometimes called "sfenj," is a fried doughnut made from a simple dough of semolina, yeast, salt, and hot water. Formed into rings and fried to a golden crisp, its thin crust gives way to a light, airy interior. Unlike sufganiyot, it requires no filling—its charm lies in its simplicity and texture.
2. A Medieval Treat from al-Andalus
The story of isfenğ begins in 13th-century al-Andalus, where it was first documented in Arabic cookbooks like the Kitāb al-ṭabīẖ and the Fuḍālat al-ẖiwān. Early recipes featured semolina dough, fried until golden, with some variations recommending double-frying for a lighter texture.
Though these early versions lacked the iconic hole in the center, they set the foundation for the isfenğ we know today.
3. From Spain to Morocco: A Journey Through the Diaspora
The expulsion of Jews and Muslims from Spain in 1492 following the Reconquista and the Alhambra Decree forced many to flee to North Africa. Sephardic Jews carried their culinary traditions with them, including isfenğ.
In Morocco, the doughnut found a home among both Jews and Muslims. Moroccan Jews introduced isfenğ to their Hanukkah celebrations, while local street vendors adopted it as a year-round treat. Variations emerged across the region: Libyan sfinz and Tunisian bambaloni reflect its widespread appeal.
4. A Linguistic Legacy of Cross-Cultural Exchange
The etymology of "isfenğ" tells the story of its journey and shared heritage. The term originates from the Arabic sjenğ (meaning "sponge"), which influenced the Spanish word esponja and the Hebrew sfog, both referring to round, spongy doughnuts. Ladino, the Judeo-Spanish language of Sephardic Jews, combines these influences, calling it sponǧa.
5. A Symbol of Shared Heritage
Though the Jewish population in Morocco has significantly declined, with many emigrating to Israel, isfenğ continues to testify to a shared culinary history. For Moroccan Jews, it remains a Hanukkah staple, while for Muslims in Morocco, it’s a beloved street food available year-round.
“Isfenğ testify to a shared culinary heritage belonging to both Jews and Muslims,” says Piñer. “Both in the past and the present day.”
6. How to Enjoy Isfenğ for Hanukkah
Making isfenğ at home is simple and requires minimal ingredients:
- Combine semolina, yeast, salt, and warm water to create a pliable dough.
- Let it rise, then form small rings.
- Fry each side in hot oil for about a minute until golden and crispy.
Enjoy isfenğ as is, or sprinkle with sugar or drizzle with honey for a touch of sweetness.
Preserving History, One Bite at a Time
Isfenğ is more than just a doughnut; it’s a delicious reminder of the intertwined histories of Jews and Muslims in al-Andalus. Whether enjoyed as a Hanukkah treat or a Moroccan street snack, this crispy delight connects cultures and preserves a shared culinary legacy.
As we light the menorah this Hanukkah, let isfenğ serve as a flavorful bridge between past and present, honoring the resilience and richness of Sephardic traditions.