How Gentrification Shapes the Food Scene in Mexico City

In Mexico City, an inspiring food initiative called Eat What You Want Pay What You Can is reshaping the way people think about dining. The project started at the famous restaurant Masala y Maíz and has now grown into a citywide event. For one day in August 2025 more than twenty restaurants across Mexico City and one in Mérida invited people to enjoy meals and decide the value themselves. Guests could eat freely and then pay an amount that matched what they felt the experience was worth.

Origins of the Concept

The movement began in 2017 at Masala y Maíz, founded by chefs Norma Listman and Saqib Keval. They introduced the idea as an act of what they call radical hospitality. Instead of treating dining only as a transaction, they wanted to make it an experience based on trust, generosity, and community. Their pay what you can days soon became a symbol of inclusion, allowing people from different backgrounds to share the same table without worrying about cost.

This idea spread further in 2025 when some of the city’s best restaurants joined together to create a large scale event. Diners could walk into fine dining spaces like Expendio de Maíz or Baldío and know that cost would not limit their experience.

Impact on the Community

The initiative has been described as more than a creative business model. It is also a response to the effects of gentrification in Mexico City. As rents and living costs rise, many locals find it difficult to access restaurants in central neighborhoods such as Roma and Condesa. By allowing people to pay according to their ability, chefs are sending a message that food culture should remain inclusive.

The restaurants involved represented a wide range of cooking styles. From traditional corn based cuisine at Expendio de Maíz to modern flavors at Cicatriz and Malix, the event showed the diversity of the city’s food scene. Diners were able to enjoy high quality meals that might otherwise have been beyond their budget.

Building a Culture of Trust

One of the strongest impacts of this movement is the sense of trust and solidarity it creates. Instead of strict menus and fixed prices, guests are invited to reflect on the value of what they eat. The restaurants in turn trust diners to contribute fairly. This balance encourages people to view dining not only as a personal pleasure but also as a shared responsibility.

Future Outlook

While the citywide rollout lasted for one day, its impact has been long lasting. Many diners and chefs have called for similar events in the future. Masala y Maíz continues to hold its own pay what you can days, keeping the spirit alive. The success of this project shows that Mexico City is not only a world class food destination but also a community that values generosity and connection.