Giresun, Turkey: The Hazelnut Capital of the World
Fans of flavored coffee or sweet treats may not realize that a significant majority of the world’s hazelnuts originate from a specific coastal mountain range in Turkey, where women have been nurturing these precious nuts for centuries. Nestled on the slopes of the Pontic mountain range overlooking the Black Sea in northeastern Turkey, the ancient city of Giresun is renowned not only for its breathtaking coastal views and dramatic jagged mountains but also for its exceptional hazelnuts.
Turkey is responsible for producing over 72% of the world’s hazelnuts, with approximately 60% coming from the Eastern Black Sea region, where Giresun is situated. This tradition of hazelnut farming dates back thousands of years; even Herodotus, the “father of history,” praised the region's hazelnut abundance in the 5th century BC. Since the 1400s, hazelnuts from Giresun and its neighboring areas have been exported to Europe and beyond, establishing a long-standing reputation.
The Role of Women in Hazelnut Production
A recent episode of the BBC program Discovering the World's Table delved into Turkey's rich culinary landscape, shedding light on the journey of hazelnuts before they find their way into popular products like Nutella. In Giresun, hazelnut cultivation has historically been the domain of women, and this trend is continuing as they increasingly take over the production and sale of hazelnut goods, including a variety of chocolate products.
Traditionally, the nuts were exported overseas only to return to Turkey in the form of chocolate bars and spreads. However, local businesses like Home of the Hazelnut, founded by three sisters with deep family roots in the hazelnut industry, are striving to change that narrative.
“In this region, 80% of the hazelnut products are processed by women,” Sayari Sungur, one of the company’s owners and co-founders, shared with Discovering the World's Table host Nick Kwek. “It is always women who are best at taking care of these nuts, both in the fields and in the gardens. So now we want those women to become both the growers and the decision-makers.”
Empowering Local Women and Revitalizing Tradition
Since its inception nine years ago, Home of the Hazelnut has worked to preserve Giresun's ancient traditions while also serving as a beacon of inspiration for a new generation of local women. Sungur takes pride in her family's success, which has motivated other women in the region to establish their own businesses. “Now that lots of women have started to see how valuable this product is, many more are starting to produce it and own it. I think this is phenomenal,” she noted.
Challenges on the Horizon
While Turkey's hazelnut industry continues to thrive, it faces significant challenges. Like many agricultural sectors worldwide, the region's ability to grow hazelnut trees is increasingly threatened by environmental factors. Climate change is impacting the local ecosystem, resulting in higher humidity levels and an influx of pests that jeopardize hazelnut crops.
Dr. Sebahat K. Ozman-Sullivan, a plant protection scientist and hazelnut farmer who grew up in the Giresun region, expressed her concerns: “[As the climate has changed], new pests have been arriving in the last three or four years. It’s a big problem to control because they feed on many plants. Additionally, the high humidity is leading to mildew disease,” she explained, noting that hazelnuts thrive in drier conditions.
Ozman-Sullivan further emphasized the potential downsides of pest control measures: “People use pesticides, but it’s not good because there are many microorganisms living in the soil, and we need to keep them alive.”
A Commitment to Preservation
Hazelnut farmers in Giresun are fiercely proud of the bounty that emerges from their unique mountain-meets-sea ecosystem. Many, including Ozman-Sullivan, are committed to protecting this heritage and their traditions for future generations. “We want to [continue to] grow hazelnuts in this beautiful landscape,” she affirmed.
In Giresun, the story of the hazelnut is not just one of agricultural success; it is intertwined with cultural identity, women's empowerment, and a resolute commitment to preserving both the land and its longstanding traditions amidst the challenges of modernity. As this hazelnut capital of the world continues to thrive, its rich history and potential for innovation serve as an inspiring testament to the power of community and resilience.