Capri Beyond the Glamour: Discovering the Island’s Untamed Side

When most travelers picture Capri, visions of bougainvillea-draped villas, yacht-lined harbors, and luxury boutiques come to mind. But this glamorous image only represents one side of the Italian island. Beyond the postcard-perfect Capri Town lies Anacapri, a rugged paradise where nature, solitude, and authentic island life thrive.

I set out to explore Capri’s wilder face by hiking the Sentiero dei Fortini (Trail of Little Forts), a six-kilometre cliffside path that links 19th-century Bourbon military outposts. Dodging wild rosemary and prickly pears, I encountered only one other person over two hours. With my phone’s GPS failing and the ceramic path markers hidden low among the flora, I navigated through fig trees, lizards, falcons, and sheer cliffs that plunged 30 meters into the Gulf of Naples. Standing alone at Fort Orrico, I gazed at the distant islands of Ischia and Procida alone and victorious at the island’s edge.

This is Capri as few know it. Capri is actually home to two distinct towns. At one end lies Capri Town, where well-heeled visitors sip espresso in Piazza Umberto I, shop in designer boutiques, and admire the iconic faraglioni sea stacks. It’s the Capri that graces social media feeds and movie screens, most recently featured in Another Simple Favor by Paul Feig.

But at the opposite end is Anacapri Capri’s quieter, more rugged sister. Here, hiking boots replace designer shoes, and adventure trumps nightlife. While Capri Town sees up to 16,000 visitors daily, most never venture to Anacapri, missing out on its raw beauty and serene landscapes.

According to Camilla Formisano, copyeditor at Capri.com, most tourists are limited by time and follow the well-trodden routes offered by cruise excursions. "People see the faraglioni and the piazza and think, 'I saw Capri'," she explains, adding that social media has condensed Capri’s image into a single glamorous snapshot.

Yet, Capri’s rich history predates its modern celebrity. Originally a humble fishing island, it was settled by Ancient Greeks and later served as a retreat for Roman Emperor Tiberius. Its transformation into a luxury destination began centuries later, attracting Romantic poets, artists, and Hollywood stars.

In Anacapri, however, a different Capri awaits. From its Boffe quarter, visitors can venture toward the historic lighthouse at Punta Carena or follow the Migliera trail for breathtaking cliffside views. The area offers a mix of steep stone paths, orange blossom-scented air, and tranquil sea vistas.

While Anacapri also experiences tourism at attractions like the Blue Grotto, Villa San Michele, and the Monte Solaro chairlift, it remains far less crowded than Capri Town. Buses from ATC Capri Srl make it easy to reach Punta Carena, where sunbathers lounge on cliffside rocks and swimmers dive into the crystalline sea.

Da Antonio, a rustic shack, serves simple yet delicious panini, gelato, and a standout crouton-and-aubergine panzanella salad, while Lido del Faro offers an upscale experience with a pool and restaurant. But what truly sets Punta Carena apart is its sunset.

"It’s the only place on Capri where the sun sets directly into the sea," Formisano notes. "The light turns golden, casting a magical glow over the cliffs and water—a scene few visitors ever witness."

In Anacapri, away from the designer stores and bustling piazzas, Capri’s authentic, untouched soul quietly reveals itself.